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Active or passive PA speakers?
An active PA speaker has its amplifier built into the cabinet, so it needs a mains socket and a signal and nothing else. For a duo, a mobile DJ or anyone loading in alone, that is usually the right choice. A passive speaker needs a separate power amplifier, which means another case to carry and a rack to build, but it lets you decide how much power you send, replace parts independently and expand the rig over time. Passive cabinets are often lighter too, because the amplifier is not bolted inside.
ABS or wooden cabinets?
Moulded ABS cabinets are light, shrug off knocks and usually include moulded handles and a pole socket, which makes them the practical choice for a rig that goes out every weekend. Plywood cabinets are heavier but stiffer, and that rigidity tends to give a tighter low end and a little more output from the same driver, which is why installed systems and function bands often prefer them. If the speakers live on a stage and rarely move, wood is worth the extra weight.
What size and power do you need?
An 8 or 10 inch top will handle speech, a solo act or background music in a small room. A 12 inch cabinet is the usual choice for a band or DJ in a pub, and a 15 inch top covers larger function rooms and outdoor sets. Read the RMS power rating rather than the peak figure, and bear in mind that doubling the power gives only a modest lift in perceived loudness, so a larger driver often does more for you than a larger amplifier.
Matching passive speakers to an amplifier
Check impedance first. Most passive PA cabinets are 8 ohm, and two of them wired in parallel present 4 ohm, so the amplifier must be rated to drive that safely. Aim for an amplifier that delivers a little more than the speaker continuous rating, because an amplifier pushed into clipping does far more damage to a driver than clean power ever will. You can filter this range by impedance and power output to narrow it down to cabinets your amplifier suits.
Adding a subwoofer
Tops alone run out of low end quickly once you add kick drum or dance music. Pairing them with a subwoofer takes that load off the smaller drivers, which usually makes the whole system sound louder and cleaner at the same setting. Most active subs include a high pass output to feed the tops and a 35mm socket so a top can be pole mounted directly above, which keeps the footprint small and lifts the speaker nearer ear height.
Stands, poles and placement
Get the tops above head height so the sound reaches the back of the room rather than the first row of shoulders. Check the maximum load of a stand before trusting it with a heavy cabinet, and weight the legs if the floor is uneven or the crowd will be close. Angling the tops slightly inwards covers the middle of the room more evenly than pointing them straight down the walls, and keeping them in front of the microphones reduces the risk of feedback.
Looking after your cabinets
Use speaker cable rated for the job, with Speakon connectors where the cabinet has them, since undersized cable wastes amplifier power and can overheat. Padded covers pay for themselves on a rig that travels, and a quick look at the grille, handles and pole socket after each event catches damage before it strands you. We stock replacement drivers and horns for many models, so a failed component need not mean a new speaker.