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AV Switches

Our range of AV switches and splitters lets several sources share one screen, or one source feed several screens, without swapping cables behind the television. We stock HDMI switches, splitters and extenders alongside audio switching for multi-source systems. Found it cheaper elsewhere? We will match the price.

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Switch or splitter? They are opposites

The names get used interchangeably and they do the reverse of each other. A switch takes several inputs and sends one of them to a single display, which is what you want when a console, a set top box and a laptop all need the one HDMI socket on a television. A splitter takes one input and sends it to several displays at once, which is what a shop showing the same content on four screens needs. Buying the wrong one is the most common mistake in this category.

Matching the resolution

A switch or splitter has to support the resolution and refresh rate you are passing through it, and it becomes the weakest link if it does not. A 4K 60Hz source through a unit rated only for 4K 30Hz will drop out, sparkle or fall back to a lower resolution. Check the supported bandwidth against your source rather than your display, since the source usually asks for the highest mode available.

Extenders for long runs

Where a screen is too far away for an HDMI cable, an extender sends the signal over network cable instead, typically up to 40 metres or more depending on the model. You need a transmitter at the source and a receiver at the display, plus a decent quality Cat6 run between them. This is usually cheaper and more reliable than a very long active HDMI cable, and the network cable is far easier to pull through a wall.

Powered or unpowered?

Passive switches take their power from the HDMI signal and are fine for simple, short setups. Splitters almost always need external power, because the signal is being divided and each output needs driving. If a unit is behaving erratically, an unpowered device on a marginal signal is a common cause, so try the supplied power supply even where the instructions suggest it is optional.

HDCP and why a screen sometimes stays black

Copy protection, known as HDCP, must be negotiated between the source and every device in the chain. If a streaming box shows a black screen through a switch or splitter that works fine with other sources, an HDCP mismatch is the usual explanation rather than a fault. Look for a unit that states support for the HDCP version your source uses, and keep the chain as short as possible.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between a switch and a splitter?
A switch takes several sources and feeds one display, which suits a console, set top box and laptop sharing one television input. A splitter takes one source and feeds several displays, which suits showing the same content on multiple screens. They are opposites.

Will it work with 4K?
Only if it is rated for the resolution and refresh rate your source outputs. A 4K 60Hz source through a 4K 30Hz unit will drop out or fall back. Check the supported bandwidth against the source rather than the display.

How do I get HDMI to a screen 30 metres away?
Use an extender over network cable, with a transmitter at the source and a receiver at the display, plus a good quality Cat6 run. It is generally more dependable and easier to install than a very long active HDMI cable.

Does it need a power supply?
Splitters almost always do, since the signal is divided and each output needs driving. Some switches run from the HDMI signal alone. If a unit behaves erratically, connect the supplied power supply even if the instructions treat it as optional.

Why does my streaming box show a black screen?
Usually an HDCP copy protection mismatch rather than a fault, since it must be negotiated across every device in the chain. Check the unit supports the HDCP version your source uses, and keep the chain as short as possible.

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