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TV Brackets

Our range of TV wall brackets covers fixed, tilting and full motion mounts, along with ceiling and desk options. The two things that decide whether a bracket will work are the VESA hole pattern on the back of your screen and what the wall behind it is actually made of. Found it cheaper elsewhere? We will match the price.

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VESA: the measurement that matters

VESA is the standard spacing of the four threaded holes on the back of a television, quoted in millimetres as horizontal by vertical, such as 200 x 200 or 400 x 400. A bracket lists the patterns it supports, and if yours is not among them the bracket will not fit regardless of screen size. Measure the holes yourself rather than trusting the screen size, since two 55 inch televisions can use different patterns. Note the screw thread too, as M4 to M8 are all in use.

Fixed, tilting or full motion?

A fixed bracket holds the screen flat to the wall, sits closest to it and costs least, which suits a screen at eye level. A tilting bracket angles downwards, which is what you need if the television is mounted above eye level such as over a fireplace, since it stops reflections and reduces neck strain. A full motion or cantilever bracket swings out and rotates, which suits a corner, a kitchen or a room where you watch from more than one position. Each step adds cost and projects further from the wall.

Weight and what the wall will take

Check the bracket weight rating against the screen weight rather than its size, since panel weights vary considerably. Then consider the wall. Solid brick or concrete will take a properly fixed bracket without difficulty. A stud partition needs the bracket fixed into the timber studs, not the plasterboard, so the stud spacing must line up with the bracket plate. Dot and dab walls need fixings long enough to reach the masonry behind the void. If in doubt about a large screen on a plasterboard wall, get it checked rather than guessing.

Fixings for different wall types

The fixings supplied with a bracket suit ordinary masonry. Anything else usually needs different hardware bought separately: heavy duty plasterboard anchors for a stud wall where studs cannot be reached, longer bolts for dot and dab, and chemical anchors for aerated blockwork, which crumbles under standard plugs. Never mount a television on plasterboard using only the plugs in the box.

Height and viewing angle

The comfortable position puts the centre of the screen roughly at seated eye level, which is usually lower than people expect, around 100 to 110 centimetres from the floor. Mounting above a fireplace looks tidy but forces the head back, so use a tilting bracket if that is the plan. Hold a cardboard template on the wall and live with it for a day before drilling.

Cables and getting it neat

Decide where cables will run before fixing the bracket, because a fixed mount leaves very little room to work behind. Trunking or a recessed back box below the screen keeps things tidy, and if you are chasing the wall, run a spare draw string so a future cable can be pulled through. On a full motion bracket, leave enough slack for the arm at full extension and check nothing pulls tight as it swings.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know which bracket fits my television?
Measure the VESA hole pattern on the back, horizontally and vertically in millimetres, and check the bracket supports it. Screen size alone is not enough, since two 55 inch televisions can use different patterns. Note the screw thread as well, from M4 to M8.

Fixed, tilting or full motion?
Fixed sits closest to the wall and suits a screen at eye level. Tilting angles down, which is needed above a fireplace to cut reflections and neck strain. Full motion swings and rotates for corners or rooms viewed from several positions.

Can I mount a television on a plasterboard wall?
Only into the timber studs behind it, not the board alone, and the stud spacing has to line up with the bracket plate. Where studs cannot be reached, heavy duty anchors are required. For a large screen, have it checked rather than guessing.

Are the supplied fixings good enough?
They suit ordinary masonry. Stud walls, dot and dab and aerated blockwork all need different hardware, such as longer bolts or chemical anchors. Never mount a television on plasterboard using only the plugs in the box.

How high should I mount it?
Aim for the centre of the screen at seated eye level, usually around 100 to 110 centimetres from the floor, which is lower than most people expect. Tape a template to the wall and live with it for a day before drilling.

How do I hide the cables?
Plan the route before fixing the bracket, since a fixed mount leaves little space behind. Trunking or a recessed back box below the screen works well, and leaving a draw string in any chased run makes future cables easy.

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