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Speaker Drivers & Components

Our range of speaker drivers and components covers the parts that fail first, so a blown cone or a cracked grille need not mean buying a new cabinet. We stock woofers, compression drivers, tweeters, crossovers, attenuators and grilles for PA and installed systems. Found it cheaper elsewhere? We will match the price.

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Matching a replacement driver

Three figures need to agree before a replacement will work properly: the mounting diameter, the impedance and the power handling. Fitting a 4 ohm driver where the cabinet expects 8 ohm halves the load the amplifier sees, which can damage it, so check the label on the old driver or the cabinet plate before ordering. Cone depth matters too, since a deeper magnet assembly may foul a brace inside a shallow enclosure.

Compression drivers and horns

A compression driver handles the high frequencies in most PA cabinets, working through a horn that shapes where the sound goes. They are the component most often damaged by an amplifier driven into clipping. Replacements are usually specified by throat size, commonly 1 inch or 1.4 inch, along with impedance and the diaphragm material. Many models allow the diaphragm alone to be replaced, which is cheaper than a whole driver.

Crossovers and how they split the signal

A passive crossover sits inside the cabinet and sends low frequencies to the woofer and highs to the tweeter or compression driver. If a cabinet has gone quiet at one end of the spectrum, the crossover is worth checking before you condemn the driver. Replacements are specified by crossover frequency, the number of ways and the power they can handle, and they must match the drivers either side of them.

Grilles, attenuators and finishing parts

A bent grille is cosmetic until it touches the cone, at which point it will buzz. Replacing it is quick and cheap. Attenuators let you set the level of one speaker independently of the rest of a system, which is useful in a multi zone install where one room always ends up too loud. We also stock the corners, handles and pole cups that take the most punishment on a travelling cabinet.

Fitting a new driver safely

Disconnect the cabinet from the amplifier before you start, and note which terminal each wire came from, since reversing the polarity of one driver will hollow out the sound. Support the driver as you release the last fixings so it does not drop onto its own cone. Check the gasket seals cleanly when you refit, because an air leak around the frame will rob the cabinet of low end and can buzz at volume.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know which replacement driver I need?
Match three things: mounting diameter, impedance and power handling. Check the label on the old driver or the plate on the cabinet. Also check cone and magnet depth, since a deeper assembly can foul a brace inside a shallow enclosure.

Can I fit a 4 ohm driver in place of an 8 ohm one?
Not safely. Halving the impedance doubles the load the amplifier sees and can damage it, and the crossover will no longer work as designed. Always replace like for like on impedance.

What is a compression driver?
It handles the high frequencies in most PA cabinets, working through a horn that shapes the coverage. It is the part most often damaged by an amplifier driven into clipping. Specify by throat size, commonly 1 inch or 1.4 inch, plus impedance.

Can I replace just the diaphragm?
On many compression drivers, yes, and it costs considerably less than a complete driver. Check the model number, as diaphragms are specific to the driver and cannot be swapped between brands.

My cabinet has no treble. Is the driver dead?
Not necessarily. Check the crossover first, since a failed component there will silence one end of the spectrum while the driver itself is fine. Also check the wiring at both terminals before replacing anything.

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