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Garden Furniture Covers

Garden furniture is spoiled by damp far more often than by cold, and a cover is the cheapest thing that prevents it. We stock covers for dining sets, corner groups, tables, chairs, loungers and parasols, in fabrics that shed rain while still letting moisture escape. Measure your furniture before choosing, because fit does more than specification.

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Why breathability matters more than waterproofing

It is tempting to buy the most waterproof cover available, and it is usually a mistake. A fully sealed cover stops rain getting in and also stops moisture getting out, so condensation forms underneath and sits against the frame and the cushions. The result is the mould and corrosion the cover was bought to prevent. What you want is a fabric that resists water from outside while remaining breathable, ideally with vents, so the air underneath can change.

Measuring for a cover

Measure the width, depth and height of the furniture as it stands, including any parts that project, and compare all three against the cover rather than buying by the name of the set. A cover that is too small strains its seams and leaves feet exposed; one that is much too large bags, holds water in the hollows and catches wind. Where a cover will go over a table with chairs tucked under it, measure the assembly rather than the table.

Fixings, wind and standing water

Most damage to covers happens in wind. Look for a drawstring hem, straps or buckles, and use them, since a cover that lifts is doing nothing. On a flat surface such as a table, a cover wants some slope or a support beneath it so rain runs off instead of pooling in the middle, because a pool becomes weight and weight becomes a split seam. Check after storms.

Fabric, weight and what the numbers mean

Cover fabrics are usually polyester with a coating, and the figure quoted is the weight of the cloth. Heavier fabric resists tearing and holds its shape better over several winters, which is most of what you are paying for. A separate figure sometimes describes how much water the coating resists before it wets through, and a high number there is only useful alongside breathability, since a fabric that stops all water in both directions is the one that sweats underneath. Look for a lined or brushed inner face where the cover touches paintwork or a polished top, because grit trapped between a bare cover and a surface acts like sandpaper in wind. Welded rather than stitched seams leak less, and taped seams sit between the two.

What to cover and what to bring in

Frames, tables and loungers are the things to cover. Cushions are better brought indoors or kept in a storage box, because even under a cover they hold damp longer than anything else and are the first thing to go mouldy. Parasols should be closed, dried and sleeved. Empty water-filled parasol bases before frost.

Covers for parasols, loungers and odd shapes

Not everything in a garden is a cube. A parasol cover is a long sleeve that goes over the closed canopy, and the useful ones have a zip most of the way down so you are not wrestling it over the ribs. Lounger covers need to follow a reclining shape, so check the length against the lounger flat rather than as it sits. A cover for a table with the chairs tucked under it has to clear the whole assembly, which is usually a size up from the table's own cover. For a fire pit or fire table, use the lid where there is one and a cover over it, and never cover anything until it is completely cold.

Care

Shake a cover out and let it dry before folding it away, and wash it down occasionally with plain water, since dirt holds moisture against the fabric. Re-proof the outer surface if water begins to soak in rather than beading. Store dry.

Check the seams and any eyelets at the end of each season, as those are the points that fail first, and a small tear will spread across a winter of wind. Zips benefit from being kept clean and free of grit. A cover is a consumable rather than a permanent fixture: it is doing the job of taking the weather so the furniture does not, and replacing one every few seasons is far cheaper than replacing what it protects. Keep the packaging or note the size somewhere, because the commonest reason a replacement cover disappoints is that it was bought from memory rather than from the measurement that worked last time. Photograph the label before the first wash as well, because the care instructions are the first thing to fade and the re-proofing advice is on it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should garden furniture covers be fully waterproof?

No. A completely sealed cover traps condensation underneath, which causes the mould and corrosion you are trying to avoid. Choose a water-resistant but breathable fabric, ideally vented.

How do I stop a cover blowing off?

Use the drawstring, straps or buckles it comes with, and choose a size that fits reasonably closely. A loose cover catches wind like a sail. Check the fixings again after a storm.

Why does water collect on top of my cover?

Because the surface underneath is flat. Rain needs somewhere to run, so raise the centre slightly, or put something beneath the cover to create a slope. A pool of water is heavy enough to stretch fabric and split seams.

Can I leave cushions under a cover all winter?

It is better not to. Cushions hold damp longer than frames do and are the first thing to grow mould even under a good cover. Store them indoors or in a dry storage box.

What size cover do I need?

Measure the width, depth and height of the furniture as it stands, including anything that projects, and match all three. Do not buy by the name of the set, as sets of the same description vary.

Do covers stop furniture fading?

They help, since they keep direct sun off. Fading is caused by ultraviolet light, so anything that shades the furniture slows it, though no cover stops it entirely over several seasons.

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