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Light Bulb Adaptors

Light bulb adaptors let you fit a bulb with one cap into a fitting designed for another, so you can keep a lamp or fixture you already own. Our range covers the common conversions between bayonet and screw caps, GU10 spotlight pins and small pin G9 sockets, with most converters rated to a 60W maximum load.

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Which converter for which fitting

The job of a socket converter is simple. It plugs into the existing fitting at one end and gives you a different cap at the other, so a bulb you would not normally be able to use will sit in place. The first step is to identify the cap your fixture currently takes, then the cap of the bulb you want to fit.

Our range covers the conversions buyers ask for most. For bayonet to screw and back again we stock B22 to E27 and E27 to B22, alongside E14 to E27 and its E27 to E14 reverse. For spotlights there are GU10 to E27 and E27 to GU10 converters, plus B22 to GU10 and E14 to GU10, with ceramic-bodied versions of the E27 to GU10 and B22 to GU10 conversions. Small capsule fittings are covered by E27 to G9 and B22 to G9. There are also GU10 bulb adapters where you simply need to seat a GU10 lamp neatly.

Reading the cap codes

The letter and number tell you the cap type and size. B22 is the standard bayonet cap with two pins. E27 and E14 are Edison screw caps, the larger and smaller of the common screw fittings. GU10 is the twist-and-lock spotlight cap, and G9 is a small two-loop pin used in capsule bulbs. Match the codes at each end of the converter to the fitting and the new bulb and the conversion is straightforward.

The 60W maximum load

Most of the socket converters in our range carry a 60W maximum load rating. That figure is the ceiling for the bulb you fit, so always check the wattage marked on the bulb stays at or below it. LED bulbs make this easy, as they draw far fewer watts than older incandescent types for the same brightness, which gives you plenty of headroom within the limit.

Materials and where they suit

We stock converters in metal and polycarbonate bodies, with ceramic used on the E27 to GU10 and B22 to GU10 conversions. Finishes include matt black, black and white so the adaptor can sit discreetly behind a shade or within a fitting. Choose the body and finish to suit the fixture and how visible the adaptor will be.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know which adaptor I need?

Identify two caps. First, the fitting in your lamp or fixture, which is what the converter plugs into. Second, the cap on the bulb you want to use, which is what the converter must present. The converter is named by both, so an E27 to GU10 plugs into an E27 screw fitting and accepts a GU10 bulb. Match those two codes and you have the right adaptor for the job.

What does the 60W maximum load mean?

Most socket converters in our range are rated to a 60W maximum load. That is the highest bulb wattage you should fit into the adaptor. Check the wattage printed on the bulb and keep it at or below 60W. LED bulbs use far fewer watts than incandescent bulbs for the same light output, so they typically sit well within the limit and give you room to spare.

What do the cap codes like B22, E27 and GU10 mean?

They describe the cap type and size. B22 is a bayonet cap with two pins that push and twist into place. E27 and E14 are Edison screw caps, the larger and smaller common screw sizes. GU10 is the twist-and-lock spotlight cap, and G9 is a small looped pin used in capsule bulbs. Checking these codes on both your fitting and bulb tells you exactly which converter to choose.

Are these adaptors hard to fit?

For a standard lamp or plug-in fixture, fitting is straightforward. Switch off and let the bulb cool, remove the old bulb, push or screw the converter into the fitting, then fit your chosen bulb into the converter. For anything that involves fixed wiring or a fitting wired into the mains, we recommend using a qualified electrician rather than working on the connection yourself.

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