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Active or passive subwoofers?
An active subwoofer has its amplifier built in, so it only needs a line level signal and mains power. That keeps a rig simple and is usually the right answer for mobile DJ work, small bands and anyone who wants to arrive, plug in and play. A passive subwoofer needs a separate power amplifier, which is another box to carry but gives you control over how much power you send and makes it easier to grow the system later. If you already own an amplifier with headroom to spare, passive cabinets are often the cheaper route to serious low end.
Matching a subwoofer to your amplifier and speakers
Two figures matter. Impedance, measured in ohms, tells you what load the cabinet presents: most PA subwoofers are 8 ohm, and your amplifier needs to be rated for that, particularly if you intend to run two cabinets from one channel. Power is the second, and it is worth reading the RMS figure rather than the peak. As a rule of thumb, give the subwoofer at least as much power as the tops it supports, because low frequencies use far more headroom than the rest of the mix. You can filter this range by impedance and power output to see only the cabinets that suit your amplifier.
What size subwoofer do you need?
Driver size shapes the character of the bass as much as the volume. A 10 or 12 inch sub is quick and tight, easy to lift and well suited to speech, acoustic sets and smaller function rooms. A 15 inch cabinet is the usual all rounder for mobile DJs and bands working pub and club sized rooms. An 18 inch sub moves the most air and reaches lowest, which is what dance music in a large room needs, though it is a heavier lift and asks more of the amplifier.
How many subwoofers, and where to place them
One subwoofer will lift a small room, but a pair evens out the response and gives noticeably more usable level. Keep subs on the floor rather than on stands, because the boundary reinforces the low end at no cost. A pair placed together in the centre of a stage gives a strong forward pattern, while splitting them left and right looks tidier but can cause cancellation down the middle of the room. Corners raise output and can also make the bass sound woolly, so pull the cabinet out slightly if it loses definition.
Crossover and phase settings that keep bass clean
Most subwoofers include a crossover, either fixed or variable, and many active models add a high pass output to feed the tops. A crossover point around 100Hz to 120Hz suits most PA tops, letting the sub take everything below and freeing the smaller drivers from work they cannot do well. Bass that sounds muddy rather than deep is usually a crossover set too high, with both cabinets covering the same ground. Phase and polarity switches exist to fix cancellation, so try both positions and keep whichever gives more level where you stand to mix.
Subwoofers for installed and commercial sound
A fixed installation has different priorities. In a bar, gym or shop the aim is even, controlled low end at moderate volume rather than maximum output, so a compact 10 or 12 inch sub tucked under a counter or into a ceiling void often serves better than a large cabinet. Where the rest of the system runs on 100V line, keep the subwoofer on the same standard so levels track together across zones. For terraces and covered outdoor areas, check the IP rating and keep the cabinet clear of standing water.
Cables, poles and looking after your cabinets
Use proper speaker cable with Speakon connectors on passive subs, because undersized cable wastes amplifier power and can heat up under load. Many cabinets include a 35mm top hat so a satellite speaker can be pole mounted above the sub, which keeps the footprint small and lifts the tops nearer ear height. Padded covers are worth having if the subs travel every weekend, and a quick look at the driver and grille after each event catches damage early. We stock replacement drivers too, so a blown cone need not mean a new cabinet.