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Low impedance or 100V line?
This is the first decision and it shapes everything else. Low impedance speakers, usually 8 ohm, connect to an ordinary stereo or AV amplifier and suit one or two rooms where the cable runs are short. A 100V line speaker uses a transformer so that many speakers can share a single amplifier over long cable runs without losing level, which is why shops, offices and pubs are wired this way. If you are fitting a pair in a kitchen, low impedance is simpler and cheaper. If you are covering several zones, 100V line will save you money on both cable and amplification.
How many ceiling speakers do you need?
For background listening, one pair covers roughly 20 to 25 square metres of a domestic room with a standard ceiling height. Place them symmetrically and keep them away from the very edges of the room, since a speaker tight against a wall will sound boomy. In a long space such as a corridor or a narrow shop, a line of single speakers spaced every three to four metres gives far more even coverage than a stereo pair at one end. For commercial work it is better to fit more speakers and run them at a lower level than to push two hard.
Cut-out size and fitting depth
Every model here lists its cut-out diameter and the depth it needs above the ceiling, and both matter. Measure the void before you buy, because joists, pipework and insulation all eat into the depth available. Most ceiling speakers hold themselves in place with spring loaded dog legs that clamp to plasterboard, so the board needs to be sound and the hole cut cleanly to size. Cutting the hole slightly small and easing it out is much easier than filling one that is too large.
Bluetooth and self-powered ceiling speakers
Some models include their own amplifier and a Bluetooth receiver, so a phone or tablet connects directly and the only wiring needed is mains power. These suit a single room where running speaker cable back to an amplifier would mean lifting floors. The trade off is that each set works on its own, so they are less suited to a whole house or a multi zone shop, where a central amplifier gives you one volume control and one source for every zone.
Kitchens, bathrooms and damp areas
Steam and splashes are the enemy of a paper cone, so check the IP rating before fitting a speaker above a bath or shower. Moisture resistant models use treated cones and sealed baskets, and they last far longer in a bathroom or a covered outdoor area. Wiring regulations also restrict what may be installed in the zones immediately around a bath or shower, so if you are unsure, keep the speaker outside those zones or have an electrician confirm the position.
Fire hoods and building regulations
Cutting a hole in a ceiling puts a hole in whatever fire resistance that ceiling provided. In flats, houses in multiple occupation and most commercial buildings, a fire hood fitted above the speaker restores that protection and is often a condition of sign off. Hoods also cut the noise passing into the room above, which is worth having even where the regulations do not demand one. Check the hood is rated for the same period as the ceiling, commonly 30 or 60 minutes.
Wiring and setting up the system
Use two core speaker cable of at least 1.5mm² for domestic runs and step up a size for longer distances, keeping the run away from mains cable to avoid hum. On a 100V line system, set the tap on each speaker to share the amplifier output sensibly and add the wattages up before you commit, leaving around 20 per cent headroom on the amplifier. Label both ends of every cable at first fix, because tracing an unmarked pair through a ceiling void later is a miserable job.