Speakers & PA
Our range of speakers and PA systems covers everything from a pair of ceiling speakers in a café to a full band rig with subwoofers underneath it. Whether you want background music in a shop, a portable system for a class, or tops and subs for a function room, the sections below will narrow it down quickly. Found it cheaper elsewhere? We will match the price.
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Which type of speaker do you need?
Start with where the sound has to go. A cabinet on a stand or a pole, whether active or passive, suits bands, DJs and anything that moves between venues. Ceiling speakers disappear into a room and suit homes, shops and offices where nothing should be in the way. Commercial speakers on 100V line wiring cover several zones from one amplifier, which is how most pubs, shops and yards are wired. A portable system with a battery and a built-in microphone is the answer for classes, presentations and busking. If the low end is missing rather than the coverage, a subwoofer will do more than a bigger pair of tops.
Active or passive?
An active speaker has its amplifier inside, so it needs mains power and a signal and nothing more, which keeps a mobile rig simple. A passive speaker needs a separate power amplifier, giving you control over how much power you send and making it easier to grow or repair the system later. Neither is better in the abstract. If you load in alone and want to be running in ten minutes, choose active. If you are building a rack or a permanent install, passive usually works out cheaper per watt.
Low impedance or 100V line?
Low impedance speakers, usually 8 ohm, wire to a normal amplifier over short runs and suit one or two rooms. A 100V line speaker carries a transformer so many speakers can share one amplifier over long, thin cable without losing level. The rule of thumb is simple: one or two rooms, low impedance. Three or more zones, or long cable runs across a building, 100V line will cost less to install and be easier to control.
Matching power and impedance
For passive systems, check two figures before buying. Impedance tells the amplifier what load it is driving, and two 8 ohm cabinets in parallel become a 4 ohm load, so the amplifier must be rated for it. Power should be read as an RMS figure rather than a peak, and it is better to have an amplifier with a little headroom than one straining, because clipping damages drivers far more often than clean power does. You can filter every section here by impedance and power output.
Adding subwoofers, stands and spares
Most systems are improved more by a subwoofer than by louder tops, particularly for DJ sets and anything with a kick drum. Getting tops above head height matters just as much, so stands and poles are worth budgeting for rather than treating as an afterthought. We also stock replacement drivers, crossovers and grilles, so a failed component on a working cabinet does not mean starting again.
Installed systems and mobile rigs have different priorities
An install wants even coverage at moderate volume, tidy cabling and speakers that vanish into the building, so more speakers on lower settings almost always sounds better than a few working hard. A mobile rig wants weight, durability and speed of setup, which is where moulded cabinets, built-in amplification and pole mounting earn their keep. Knowing which of the two you are building makes most of the other decisions straightforward.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between active and passive speakers?
What is the difference between active and passive speakers?
Do I need 100V line or low impedance speakers?
Do I need 100V line or low impedance speakers?
How much power do I need?
How much power do I need?
Will a subwoofer make my system louder?
Will a subwoofer make my system louder?
Can I run two speakers from one amplifier channel?
Can I run two speakers from one amplifier channel?
Do you sell replacement parts?
Do you sell replacement parts?
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