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Power & Adapters

Our power & adapters range covers the parts that connect and power your equipment: cable adapters, power management, power supplies, powerline adaptors and switch mode power supplies. If a lead will not fit a socket, or a device needs the right supply, start here. Name the connector at both ends, check the output your device needs, then choose the section that fits.

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Power or adapters: where to start

Our power and adapters sections split between signal and power. Cable adapters carry a signal between connections that do not match. The other sections work with the mains: getting it to your equipment, converting it to the low voltage a device runs on, or carrying your home network along the wiring. Decide which job you need doing and the right section follows.

Cable adapters for AV and aerial connections

Start by naming the connection on your equipment and on your lead: HDMI, USB-C, SCART, phono, optical, jack or coaxial. Then check whether you need a plug or a socket at either end. Some of our adapters are right-angled, which takes the strain off the socket where a lead must turn sharply behind a wall-mounted TV.

We stock coaxial fittings for TV aerials. Some are couplers that join lengths of lead end to end. A few are distribution amplifiers that boost an aerial signal and share it between TVs. Many of our adapters have a gold finish on their connectors; gold resists tarnish, so it suits a join you rarely unplug. Many of our leads are short, keeping the space behind a TV tidy. A few longer leads cover a run across the room.

Splitting, switching and converting with AV adapters

A splitter shares a source between screens, which show the same picture. A switch works the other way: your sources share a single input, and you choose which to watch. A matrix does both, routing any source to any screen. Some of our HDMI adapters carry Ultra HD, which matters if your source and screen both use it.

Converting is a different job from adapting. HDMI is digital and SCART is analogue, so linking an older TV to a modern box takes a converter, not a plain adapter. Some of our USB-C headphone adapters convert too, with a built-in digital-to-analogue chip for phones without a headphone socket.

Matching power supplies to your device

With power supplies, start from the label on your device or its old supply. Match the voltage exactly. The current rating should be at least what the device draws; a higher rating is fine, because the device only takes what it needs. Then check the plug: a DC barrel has to fit the socket snugly, and the polarity symbol on the label must match too.

Some of our supplies come with interchangeable tips, which helps when you are unsure of the barrel size. Some are multi-voltage, so set the output to suit your device before you plug it in. A few of our supplies are indoor LED drivers for low-voltage lighting: add up the load of the lights and keep it within the driver's rating.

Switch mode power supplies, small and large

Switch mode describes how a supply converts mains power: it switches at high speed rather than relying on a heavy iron core, so the unit stays compact and light for its output. Ours run from small supplies for everyday devices to larger, higher-current units for equipment that draws more. Whatever the size, match the voltage and leave headroom on the current rating. Between switch mode and other power supplies, choose by the output and plug your device needs.

Power management and powerline adaptors

Power management looks after the mains end of a setup, between the wall socket and your equipment. Match the plug and socket types at both ends, and check the fitting's rating against what your equipment draws.

Powerline adaptors use the mains wiring in your home to carry a wired network connection, which helps where wireless struggles to reach a room. You need an adaptor near your router and another where you want the connection. Plug them straight into wall sockets for the strongest link.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know which adapter I need?
Check what is fitted to your equipment and to your lead, then whether you need a plug or a socket on either side. If the connections carry different kinds of signal, as HDMI and SCART do, you need a converter rather than a plain adapter.

How do I choose a replacement power supply?
Read the voltage, current and polarity from your device or its old supply, then choose the same voltage and polarity with a current rating at least as high. Make sure the DC barrel plug fits too; a few of ours include a set of interchangeable tips.

Should I choose from power supplies or switch mode power supplies?
Either can suit your device, since switch mode simply describes a compact way of building a supply. Go by the voltage, current and plug your device needs rather than the section name.

Will an HDMI splitter show different programmes on different TVs?
No, a splitter sends the same picture from a source to the screens it feeds. To watch different sources on different screens at the same time, you need an HDMI matrix.

Can I connect a USB-C laptop to a TV?
Usually, as long as the laptop's USB-C port carries video, which its manual will confirm. Some of our USB-C hubs add an HDMI output for exactly this.

Do powerline adaptors work through an extension lead?
They work best on a wall socket. An extension lead, and a surge-protected strip in particular, can weaken the network signal, so plug the adaptor in directly wherever you can.

Why do I hear a hum when I connect my laptop to my speakers?
That hum is usually a ground loop, where the earth connection between laptop and speakers forms a loop that picks up mains noise. A ground loop isolator fitted in the small jack lead often clears it, and we stock some for that job.

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