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Guitar Pedals

Our range of guitar pedals covers overdrive and distortion, delay and reverb, modulation, compression and tuning, along with multi-effects units and the power supplies to run them. Pedals are the cheapest way to change your sound substantially, and one well chosen box usually does more than a new amplifier. Found it cheaper elsewhere? We will match the price.

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The pedals most players buy first

Three effects cover the majority of what people want. An overdrive or distortion pedal adds grit and sustain, and is what makes a clean amplifier sound like a rock amplifier. A delay repeats the signal, which adds space and is what makes a simple part sound finished. A reverb places the guitar in a room. Beyond those, a tuner pedal is the least glamorous and most used box on any board, because it mutes the signal while you tune between songs.

Order on the board

Signal order changes the result considerably. The usual arrangement is tuner first, then dynamics such as compression, then gain effects like overdrive and distortion, then modulation such as chorus and phaser, with delay and reverb last. Putting reverb before distortion, for instance, distorts the reverb rather than adding space to a distorted tone. None of this is a rule, and some of the best sounds come from breaking it, but start conventionally and then experiment.

Analogue or digital?

Analogue pedals process the signal without conversion, and for overdrive and fuzz many players prefer how they respond. Digital pedals allow far longer delays, more complex reverbs and multiple effects in one enclosure, usually with presets. For a first board, a digital multi-effects unit is a cheap way to find out which effects you actually use, after which individual pedals can replace the ones that matter to you.

Powering a pedalboard properly

Most pedals want 9V DC with a centre negative tip, but check each one, since a few need 12V or 18V and connecting the wrong supply can damage them. Add up the current draw of every pedal in milliamps and make sure the supply exceeds the total with room to spare. Daisy chain leads are convenient but share a ground, which can introduce hum, so an isolated multi-output supply is worth the money once you have more than three pedals. Batteries work but are expensive over time and always fail mid set.

True bypass, buffers and long cable runs

True bypass pedals take themselves out of the signal path when switched off, which sounds ideal, but a board full of them plus long cables gradually dulls the high end. A buffered pedal drives the signal so it survives the journey. The practical answer is to have at least one buffered pedal on a large board, often the tuner, which is why many tuners are buffered by design.

Keeping it reliable on stage

Failures on a board are almost always cables and power rather than pedals. Use short, well made patch leads, secure everything to the board so nothing shifts, and carry a spare patch cable and power lead. Label the power supply outputs, and if a pedal starts behaving oddly, swap its patch lead before assuming the pedal has failed.

Frequently Asked Questions

Which pedals should I buy first?
An overdrive or distortion for grit and sustain, a delay for space, and a tuner pedal, which is the least exciting and most used box on any board because it mutes the signal while you tune. Reverb is the usual fourth.

What order should pedals go in?
Conventionally tuner, then compression, then overdrive and distortion, then modulation such as chorus, with delay and reverb last. Putting reverb before distortion distorts the reverb rather than adding space to the distorted tone.

What power supply do pedals need?
Most want 9V DC centre negative, but check each one since some need 12V or 18V and the wrong supply can cause damage. Total the current draw in milliamps and choose a supply comfortably above it.

Why does my board hum?
Often a daisy chain power lead, which shares a ground between pedals. An isolated multi-output supply usually cures it, and is worth having once you run more than three pedals.

What is true bypass and do I need it?
A true bypass pedal removes itself from the signal path when off. That sounds ideal, but many true bypass pedals plus long cables dull the high end, so having at least one buffered pedal on a large board is the practical answer.

Analogue or digital pedals?
Analogue is often preferred for overdrive and fuzz because of how it responds. Digital allows longer delays, richer reverbs and multiple effects with presets in one box, which makes a multi-effects unit a cheap way to find out what you actually use.

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