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Freya Crystal Table Lamp Base - Polished Silver (Shade Sold Separately)
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Freida 3 Light Crystal Table Lamp - Polished Chrome with Grey Shade
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Freida 3 Light Crystal Table Lamp - French Gold with Cream Shade
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Florence 1 Light Crystal Table Lamp - Polished Chrome with Black Shade
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Florence Round 1 Light Crystal Table Lamp - Antique Brass With Cream Shade
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Florence 1 Light Crystal Table Lamp - Antique Brass with Soft Bronze Shade
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Florence Rectangle 1 Light Crystal Table Lamp - Polished Chrome & Black Shade
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Florence Rectangle 1 Light Crystal Table Lamp - Polished Chrome & White Shade
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Florence Rectangle Crystal Table Lamp - Antique Brass with Cream Shade
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Florence Rectangle 1 Light Crystal Table Lamp - Antique Brass with Soft Bronze Shade
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Evelyn 2 Light Crystal Table Lamp - Polished Chrome with Cream Shade
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Elenor Crystal Table Lamp Base - Polished Chrome (Shade Sold Separately)
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Elena 1 Light Crystal Table Lamp - Polished Chrome (Without Shade)
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Cygnet 6 Light Crystal Table Lamp - Polished Chrome & Black Glass
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What a crystal table lamp actually does to a room
The working difference between a crystal lamp and a fabric-shaded one is how the light leaves it. A shade diffuses: you get an even wash and a soft edge. Crystal refracts, so the same lamp scatters light in dozens of directions at once, and a wall two metres away picks up small moving points rather than a single gradient. That makes crystal a poor choice where you need to read and a good one where you want a room to feel occupied. Most people who buy one are not lighting a task; they are lighting a corner.
Sizing one to the surface it stands on
The old decorating rule still holds: the lamp should be no taller than about a third of the height of the piece it stands on plus the piece itself, and the shade or crystal body should not overhang the edge. On a standard 55cm bedside table that puts a crystal bedside lamp at roughly 45 to 55cm overall. On a console behind a sofa you have more room and can go to 70cm or more without it looking top-heavy. We list the full height and the widest dimension on every product, and it is worth measuring the surface before you choose rather than after.
Crystal, frame finish and how they read together
Clear crystal gives the brightest scatter and the sharpest points of light. Smoked and champagne-tinted crystal absorbs a little of that, so the effect is warmer and more contained, and the lamp reads darker in daylight when it is switched off. If the lamp sits in a pale room and you want it to disappear when unlit, clear is the safer pick. If the room is dark-painted or the lamp sits against timber, a tinted crystal usually sits better.
Crystal is almost always clear or near-clear, so the frame is what carries the colour. Polished chrome gives a cool, bright ground and is the easiest match for modern rooms and mirrored furniture. Satin nickel is the same family but softer and less reflective, which helps if the lamp sits somewhere it will be handled. Antique and satin brass warm the whole piece and sit better with wood, dark paint and older houses. We stock all four across the range so a pair can be matched to existing metalwork rather than fought against.
Lamps, dimming and heat
Most crystal table lamps here take G9 capsules or E14 candle lamps, and almost none are supplied with lamps fitted. That is deliberate: it lets you pick the colour temperature. We would fit LED rather than halogen in every case, both for running cost and because halogen puts real heat into a crystal body that sits close to the lamp. If you want to dim, you need dimmable lamps and a compatible dimmer, because the lamp itself carries no driver and no dimmer, and a standard non-dimmable LED will flicker or refuse outright.
Buying a pair
Bedside lamps are usually bought two at a time, and it is worth ordering both together rather than a month apart. Crystal ranges get withdrawn and reissued, and cut patterns are not always identical between production runs. Where a range offers more than one size, a matched pair either side of a bed reads better than a single larger lamp on one side unless the room is genuinely asymmetric.
What drives the price of a crystal lamp
Three things, in roughly this order. The first is the crystal itself: machine-pressed glass costs a fraction of hand-cut lead crystal, and the difference shows in the sharpness of the facet edges rather than in the photographs. The second is the count. A lamp hung with two hundred small droplets carries more labour than one with twenty large ones, whatever the overall size suggests. The third is the frame, where solid brass sits well above plated steel and lasts correspondingly longer in a room that gets handled.
What does not drive it much is height. Crystal lamps of the same design in two sizes are usually closer in price than people expect, because the frame and the wiring are largely the same job. If you are choosing between sizes on cost alone, the larger one is often better value per centimetre. We list the crystal type where the supplier states it, and where they do not we say so rather than inferring a grade the paperwork does not support.
Keeping crystal looking like crystal
Dust is what dulls crystal, not dirt. A dry microfibre cloth or a soft brush every few weeks does almost all of the work, and it should be done with the lamp switched off and cool. Avoid glass sprays: they leave residue in the cut faces, and the cut faces are the entire point of the piece. If a lamp has genuinely marked, a barely damp cloth followed immediately by a dry one will lift it without touching the plating on the frame.