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AV & Data

Our range of AV and data equipment covers the connections between sources and screens: HDMI, optical and audio cables, switches, splitters and extenders, wall plates to finish a run properly, and the accessories that keep an existing system going. Most picture and sound problems come down to something in this range rather than the equipment itself. Found it cheaper elsewhere? We will match the price.

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Start with the cable

When a picture or a sound is missing, the cable is the first thing to change, because it resolves the majority of faults. With HDMI the question is bandwidth rather than brand: High Speed handles 1080p, Premium High Speed covers 4K at 60Hz, and Ultra High Speed is needed for 4K at 120Hz or 8K. With audio cable the question is balanced or unbalanced, since a balanced XLR or TRS run stays clean over tens of metres while an unbalanced RCA or TS lead starts collecting hum after a few.

Switches and splitters do opposite jobs

A switch takes several sources into one display, which is what you need when a console, a set top box and a laptop share one television input. A splitter takes one source out to several displays, which is what a shop with four screens showing the same content needs. Both have to support the resolution your source outputs, or they become the weakest link and the picture drops out.

Getting a signal further than a cable will go

Passive HDMI is dependable to around 5 metres at high bandwidth and up to about 10 metres at lower resolutions. Past that, use an active or optical HDMI cable, or an extender that sends the signal over Cat6 network cable with a transmitter at the source and a receiver at the screen. Network cable is cheaper, easier to pull through a wall and more forgiving over distance.

Finishing the installation

A wall plate turns a cable poking out of the plaster into a proper outlet. Modular plates take keystone modules so HDMI, network and speaker connections can share one plate and be changed individually later. Watch the back box depth, since HDMI plugs are bulky and need 35mm or more, and leave a draw string in any concealed run so a future cable can be pulled through without opening the wall.

Solving hum, black screens and lost remotes

A hum that appears only when two devices are connected is a ground loop, cured properly with an isolating transformer in the signal path and never by removing an earth pin. A black screen from a streaming box through a switch is usually HDCP copy protection rather than a fault. And a lost remote rarely justifies replacing working equipment, since a universal or learning handset will normally cover it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Which HDMI cable do I need?
Match the standard to your resolution rather than paying for brand. High Speed covers 1080p, Premium High Speed covers 4K at 60Hz, and Ultra High Speed is required for 4K at 120Hz or 8K. HDMI is digital, so it either works or fails visibly.

What is the difference between a switch and a splitter?
A switch feeds several sources into one display. A splitter sends one source to several displays. They are opposites, and buying the wrong one is the most common mistake in this category.

How do I get HDMI to a distant screen?
Beyond about 5 metres at high bandwidth, use an active or optical HDMI cable, or an extender over Cat6 network cable with a transmitter and receiver. Network cable is cheaper, easier to install and more reliable over distance.

Do I need a modular wall plate?
If the requirement might change, yes, because keystone modules let you mix HDMI, network and speaker outlets on one plate and swap one later. Allow at least 35mm back box depth for HDMI, as the plugs are bulky.

Why do I get a hum when I connect two devices?
A ground loop, caused by sharing a signal cable and separate mains earths. Fit a ground loop isolator in the signal path. Never remove an earth pin from a plug, which is dangerous and does not fix the cause.

Can I replace a lost remote control?
Usually yes. A universal remote covers most brands using a setup code, and a learning remote can copy commands from a partially working original. Note the make and model of the equipment rather than the remote.

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